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titusnowlETIQUETTE OF DRESS.
Although it is not true that "dress makes the man," it is true that dress is an index of character, and as such by no means unimportant. Our first impression is produced on strangers by the clothes we wear, and, as first impressions are often lasting, it is best that they should be favorable. A shabbily dressed man feels awkward and ill at ease, and a shabbily dressed woman still more so. Nature provides a suitable costume for plants and all animals, excepting man, but the "lords of creation" must devise their own covering, and exercise their own taste in so doing. A due regard for etiquette would require every one to dress well and suitably for every occasion. To make the best appearance they can with the means at their command, is incumbent on both men and women. Women of tact know full well that even sensible men take pride in their wives' appearance. Careless and slovenly women lose thereby a measure of their influence, for men, as a rule, are not attracted by slatterns, and the most devoted wife can never be proud of a slovenly husband. It is probable that not only is dress an index of character, but it doubtless also influences the manner and disposition somewhat, so that mean and shabby clothing tends to give any one mean and shabby ways.
"Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy,
But not expressed in fancy--rich not gaudy;
For the apparel oft proclaims the man."
But while all this is true, it is also true that for weak minds an inordinate love of dress is a dangerous passion, and may easily become a curse. For the poor clerk's wife to try and rival, in richness of dress, the wealthy banker's, is so evidently foolish as to be apparent to all, and it is a great temptation to her husband to try and obtain in unlawful ways money with which to gratify her. such women should know that extravagant display is ill-bred and vulgar, as well as foolish. She who thoroughly understands her circumstances and adapts her dress tehreto, displays both good taste and good sense. When two young people are beginning life together on a small income, and they have their own way to make in the world, it should be the pride and delight of the young wife to see how little she can spend on dress, and yet appear fresh and attractive. The French women have always been credited with the most genius for dress, and they do have an eye for the harmony of colors and the fitness of things that puts the average English woman to the blush, but the American women are little, if any, their inferiors in these regards.
Many of our readers have, no doubt, noticed that the old worn "gown" is coming into vogue again. It is applied to hte outer garment usually worn by ladies, while the word "dress" is applied to the tout ensemble--the whole combination of the clothes.
A few hints and general directions about dress may be given, as follows:
Perfect neatness and cleanliness are of the first importance.
It is said that refinement of character is never associated with vulgarity of dress.
Study the society with which you expect to associate, and adapt your dress thereto.
The pronounced and showy colors formerly worn, are not now allowable.
Dress should be pleasant to look at, and should harmonize with the season of the year.
A lavish display of jewelry and ostentatious costumes are in bad taste.
Extremely low-necked dresses--so low as to cause remark--are vulgar.
A dress so perfectly in harmony with one's character and surroundings as to be unnoticed, is in the best of taste. She who thoroughly understands herself and her surroundings, and adapts her clothing thereto, always appears well dressed.
To "out-Herod Herod" in going to the extreme of fashion, is in bad taste; it is equally so to disregard the prevailing style altogether.
Tight lacing is going out of style at present, in all countries.
Perfumes should be used in moderation, if at all. None but the best should ever be used, as cheap perfumes are intolerable. As musk, patchouly and sandalwood make many sensitive persons ill, a due regard for the feelings of others would forbid their use.
A competent authority on dress says: "Thin ladies can wear delicate colors, while stout, florid persons, look better in black or dark gray. For old, as well as young, however, the question of color must be determined by complexion and figure. Rich colors harmonize with brunette complexions and dark hair; delicate colors, with persons of blonde hair and complexion."
The usual gown for ladies of wealth and position should be of dark silk. Jewelry, flowers in caps, or hair ornaments, and light silk gowns, are not suitable for morning wear. Diamonds should be reserved for evening.
We offer the following hints in regard to the different styles of dress suitable for various occasions:
THE EVENING DRESS FOR LADIES.
The evening dress for ladies is worn at all festivities, and should, from first to last, be expressive of luxury. At all brilliant evening assemblies, the dress may be as rich and elegant as one chooses to make it. Incongruities, however, should be avoided. Jewelry may be worn, and the full dress costume, but dresses very low in the neck are in bad taste. The full evening dress is worn at balls, large dinners, and parties. The gown should be in the prevailing fashion, but as that constantly varies, we cannot give more explicit directions.
BALL DRESS FOR LADIES.
For the ball room the full dress should be worn. Those who dance should not wear heavy silks, but their dresses should be light and airy. For young people, gowns of light gossamer fabrics--net, tulle or tarletan--are most appropriate, trimmed with ribbons or flowers. Flowers may be worn in the hair, and for young ladies the natural are more suitable than artifical ones. Chaperons and elderly ladies may wear teh dress suitable for a dinner, and it need not be cut low in the neck, unless they prefer it, and then a lace scarf or shawl may be thrown over the shoulders. Jewelry never looks as well if pieces of different sets are worn together--such as adiamond brooch with emerald ear-rings or a necklace of pearls--and, therefore, the ornaments should match in character. Steel says that diamonds "may tempt a man to steal a woman, but never to lover her," which may console those who do not own them. It is not in good taste for young ladies to decorate themselves with any excess of jewelry at any time.
DRESS FOR THE OPERA.
The opera admits of elegant dressing. The evening gown may be worn, with ornaments in the hair instead of a bonnet. The lighter colored gowns are more pleasing, and add to the appearance of the house. At matineés a bonnet is always worn, and it may be very elegant and dressy, when desired.
DRESS FOR THE THEATRE.
For the theatre any attempt at display is out of taste, and the dress should be plain. Either a hat or bonnet may be worn, but it is a pity the sensible habit of removing the hat could not be introduced, out of regard for those who sit in the rear. The promenade dress may be worn, with dark gloves to harmonize.
DRESS FOR LECTURES AND CONCERTS.
Lectures and concerts admit of somewhat more display that the theatre. A silk gown, with some lace and jewelry, may be worn. The kid gloves should be light colored or white.
DRESS FOR CHURCH.
The dress for church may be rich in texture, but it should be simple and free from display. A church is the one place on earth where all classes should meet on an equal footing, and to flaunt one's elegant jewelry or dresses in the eyes of poorer or less fortunate people, while ostensibly worshipping Him who was so poor He had not where to lay His head, si manifestly in bad taste. Many wealthy and well-bred people recognize the propriety of plain dressing for church, and wear simple and unostentatious clothes at the house of God. Very little jewerly should be worn.
THE ORDINARY EVENING DRESS.
The ordinary evening dress, when at home, should be becoming and tasteful. Any of the heavy woolen dress goods in winter, or lawns or grenadines for summer, are appropriate, and silks are always suitable. Some jewelry may be worn, but diamonds should be reserved for occasions of more display. Bright ribbons may be worn at the throat and in the hair. The same dress is suitable to wear when making an evening call.
DRESS FOR INFORMAL EVENING PARTIES.
The full dinner dress is rich and elgant. Silks, satins and velvets, trimmed with laces, are worn, and costly jewelry, but everything should harmonize. In the summer, light, rich goods may be worn. Young ladies wear lighter tints and materials than the elderly ladies. For dinner, all the light neutral tints are suitable, and dark blue, purple, black, dark green, brown and fawn color.
A hostess should never make an effort to outshine her guests, and her dress should therefore be subdued in tone. Plain jewelry is worn when the dinner is held in daylight, as diamonds are usually reserved for gaslight.
DRESS FOR RECEIVING CALLS.
Ladies who have special days for receptions, should wear quiet colors on those occasions, but the gown should be of silk, or other appropriate material. A little jewelry may be worn, but ostentation should be avoided. For New Year's, and other special occasions, the dress may be rich and elaborate, and full evening dress should be worn when the curtains are drawn and the gas lighted. A lady engaged in her household affairs, should receive casual callers in her morning dress, which should be plain and scrupulously neat, but they should never be kept waiting while a dress is changed. Receive them at once, or send word you are "engaged," or "not at home."
THE MORNING DRESS FOR HOME.
A lady's morning dress should be simple and suited to the time of day. It may be inexpensive, but it must be exquisitely neat; the ribbons fresh, and the cuffs, collars, or ruches, clean and spotless. In summer, light morning dresses, of some material that will wash, are suited to young ladies, whether married or not. Much jewelry, or any light laces, are decidedly out of place, and so is an old "company gown," furbished up for the occasion. A little richer style of dress is admissible when visiting at a friend's house.
For a late breakfast, and at a watering place, imitation lace is suitable, and a more luxurious style of dress.
VISITING COSTUMES.
The costumes worn for visiting, or for day receptions, are of richer material than walking suits. The taste of the wearer may be displayed in the bonnet, which may be either rich or simple, but should not be extravagantly fine. In summer all should be cool, bright, agreeable to the eye, and pleasant to wear; and in winter, a shawl, velvet jacket, or fur trimmed mantle, may accompany the carriage visiting dress.
MORNING DRESS FOR CALLING.
For morning calls, the most appropriate dress is of black or neutral tint, with a sparing use of colors. The walking dress may be worn, or the carriage dress, when accompanied by the carriage. Light colored gloves are invariably worn when paying calls, except by persons in deep mourning.
DRESSING FOR WALKING.
Walking suits may be simple, substantial and quiet in color, and they should not be worn so long as to sweep the sidewalk. In the country they should be strong and tasteful, but in the city more richness is admissible. Thick boots are now, fortunately, fashionable, so that a little mud is not a terror. Fine laces and elaborate gowns should never be worn on the street--they should be kept for balls and full dress occasions. Neither should a "dressy" hat be worn on the street, but the hat or bonnet should be plain, and should match the gown as nearly as possible. the waterproof cloaks, now so common, are much less troublesome than an umbrella.
DRESSING FOR DRIVING.
The dress for driving is very different from the walking dress. Light colored silks, long skirts, lace parasols and feathery hats, are suitable for a carriage ride through a park or the streets of a city, and rich furs may be worn in winter. In the country, or where the dust and mud would soil the clothes, a plain and simple dress should be worn. For the top of a coach, where it is now so popular and fashionable for ladies of certain "sets" to ride, a plain and serviceable suit is in every way preferable to the elaborate and showy dresses so often worn. The Princess of Wales lately showed her usual good taste by appearing on top of a coach in London in a suit of navy-blue flannel. Those young ladies who appear on the top of a coach in a costume fit only for a ball room, display ignorance of the fitness of things, and need not complain if they are subjected to ridicule, or made the butt of caricaturists. Both good sense and good taste would dictate and modest and serviceable costume for such a place.
DRESSING FOR RIDING.
For horseback riding, the dress should be made of broad-cloth or waterproof. The former is the most stylish, but the latter is better for servicel Lighter costumes may be worn in summer. To prevent the skirts from being blown by the wind, they should be weighted by having shot sewed in at the bottom of the left hand breadths. It is an excellent idea to wear the riding skirt over another of the usual length, so that in case of accident the riding skirt may be slipped off, and yet leave the rider properly dressed. The habit should fit perfectly and button nearly to the throat, and a linen collar, with a pretty neck-tie, is worn. tHe sleeves come to the wrist, with linen cuffs beneath them. Strong leather gloves, with gauntlets, are worn, and the whip is light and plain. The hat should be in the prevailing fashion, but no long veil should be worn to flaunt in the wind. Embroidery and laces should never be worn with a riding habit.
DRESSING FOR TRAVELING.
The traveling costume should be made for service and free from superfluous ornament, for nothing is so hard on ordinary clothing as traveling. A linen duster may be worn to protect the clothes in summer, and a waterproof in winter. Dark or neutral tints, that do not show the dust, should be worn, rather than any light colored fabrics. White is never worn to travel in. Ladies going a short distance in the cars for a brief visit, may wear any dress suitable for the occasion, and their fresh, airy costumes, are often objects of envy to excursionists in travel-stained and dusty raiment. the hat should be plainly trimmed and protected from the dust by a veil. THe experienced traveler looks out for comfort and provides a waterproof, and a shawl or wrap in cold weather. IT is better to have trunks large enough to hold all your things, with a hand valise to hold the few articles needed on teh journey, than to burden yourself or others with a lot of small packages.
DRESS FOR LADIES OF BUSINESS.
There are so many avenues now open in which ladies may earn a livelihood, that we have a large class of business women. Their dress should be made with special reference to comfort and a free use of their bodies. The colors should be plain, and while the dress may be valuable, it should not be heavily trimmed. Excessive display, or ornamentation, is out of place. While engaged in business, quiet colors should be worn, and display avoided, reserving the rich and elegant clothes for theri appropriate occasion. Little jewelry should be worn, and the hat should be tasty, but without many flowers or feathers.
DRESS FOR LAWN PARTIES, ETC.
The dress for lawn parties, bazaars, promenade concerts and flower shows, may be bright and gay, and even coquettish. Much taste and elegance may be displayed. A dressy bonnet or hat may be worn, and the whole costume made as effective as possible. Young ladies wear light and fine materials, which harmonize with their character, while elderly ladies wear silks, or other handsome material, richly trimmed with lace, and a lace scarf or shawl may also be worn.
DRESS FOR YACHTING.
Yachting suits should be warm and made of some durable material, such as serge or tweed, that will not be easily spoiled by a little salt water.
DRESS FOR PICNICS, EXCURSIONS, ETC.
For picnics, excursions, or the sea shore, the suits should be made of strong and useful material. something that will wash, or that will look well at the end of a hard days' jaunt, is more serviceable than any light and flimsy material that will easily tear or become soiled.
DRESS FOR CROQUET PARTIES, ETC.
The dress for croquet, archery and skating parties, may be brilliant in color and short enough to admit of freedom of movement. A stout boot may be worn, but it should fit neatly. For archery and croquet, soft and plaible gloves should be worn, and a hat that will shield the face from the rays of the sun. For skating, velvet and furs and warm clothing should be worn, and fur-trimmed gloves. The dress should indicate warmth and comfort. Tight shoes will give cold feet.
BATHING COSTUME.
For a bathing costume flannel is the best material. Various colors are worn, but blue and grey are the best, and the trimming may be bright worsted braid. An oil-silk cap may be worn to protect the hair from the salt water. It is hardly necessary for us to say that no modest, well-bred woman, will wear the close fitting and abbreviated costumes sometimes seen, alas! with too evident an intent to display one's charms. The legs and sleeves should be long, the neck high, and the costume loose and full.
THE WEDDING DRESS.
The wedding dress should always be white, whether of silk, satin or other material. The bridal veil seems to be a survival of an old Anglo-Saxon custom, of having four tall men hold a large, square cloth over the bride during the ceremony, to hide her blushes. The bridal veil has now become an essential feature of weddings, and must always be white and long. It may, or may not, cover the face. White satin slippers are worn, and white kid gloves, although the latter are sometimes omitted. The bridal wreath is often made of orange blossoms, which are considered the most appropriate for that purpose, and the other flowers carried by the bride should be white. As orange blossoms are often difficult to procure, other natural flowers frequently take their place. Myrtle leaves are very appropriate, adn are sometimes worn, as they are emblematic of marriage. The bridal robe is often adorned with garlands of artificial flowers, although, of course, natural flowers are preferable. Jewelry should not be worn, unless it be diamonds or pearls.
Widows, on remarrying, wear light netural tints, but never white, and they always omit the orange blossoms.
At strictly private weddings, when the bride starts at once on her wedding tour, she is married in her traveling suit. It is sometimes more heavily trimmed than an ordinary traveling suit, but to avoid attracting attention it is better to have it plain.
THE DRESS FOR BRIDESMAIDS.
The bridesmaids commonly dress in white, but more variety is allowed in their dress than in that of the bride. Veils may be worn, but they should always fall entirely down the back, and should never be as long as that of the bride. Usually all the bridesmaids dress alike. Sometimes, however, they wear gowns of the primary colors, one blue, one pink, one red, and one yellow; but white, of some material less expensive than the bride's costume, is most suitable. IT is not proper for a bridesmaid to wear a finer gown than the bride. The bouquets may be of colored flowers. Neither the bride nor the bridesmaids wear anything over their shoulders, except their dresses and veils.
DRESS SUITABLE FOR WEDDINGS.
The older guests at a wedding should wear rich and handsome gowns, but, of course, black or mourning costumes are not in harmony with such an occasion. The young ladies, other than the bridesmaids, should wear any dainty material, as light colored silks, or fine muslins. Children, when present, are dressed in muslin and lace, with bright ribbons, if girls, and the boys in some fancy costume.
DRESS SUITABLE FOR WEDDING RECEPTIONS.
If the wedding reception is held in the evening, the guests should wear full evening dresses. At the reception, as at the wedding, mourning costumes should never be worn by guests; the bride and bridesmaids may wear the wedding suits. If the reception is held in the morning, handsome promenade costumes may be worn, and white gloves.
MOURNING DRESSES.
For mourning dresses, and the priods of mourning, see the article on "Etiquette of Funerals and Mourning."
GLOVES FOR LADIES.
Ladies wear gloves when riding or driving, calling, shopping, at the theatre or opera, at church, at balls and receptions. Any tint may be worn when shopping, calling, or at church. Delicate shades should be worn at evening parties, and white gloves at balls. Gloves are not worn at dinner.
ETIQUETTE OF DRESS FOR GENTLEMEN.
The subject of dress is not considered so important by gentlemen as by ladies, and yet no real gentleman is indifferent to his dress and personal appearance. A few general hints in regard to their dress may be offered, as follows:
The true gentleman is scrupulously neat and clean. Collars and cuffs should be faultlessly white, and teh clothes well brushed.
H. H. (Helen Hunt) once said to a friend of the writer (who was then a little boy playing with her son): "There are three things a gentleman will always do--he will keep his boots nicely blacked, his teeth clean, and his finger nails clean."
Hair oils and pomades are not used now, as formerly. They are considered vulgar, and they certainly are not cleanly. No gentleman should use hair dye. It deceives no one, and it makes the features look coarse.
Clothes of some plain color are always in the best taste, and so are white collars and cuffs and shirt bosoms. The fancy striped and spotted shirts and collars are sometimes worn in summer, but they always look a little rowdyish.
Let bar-tenders, gamblers and sporting men, monopolize the extravagant displays of jewelry. As a rule, wear no jewelry that is not useful. Shirt studs, cuff buttons, a scarf pin, a watch chain, and one ring, are about all the jewelry allowed to gentlemen, and these should be plain, and not too showy.
Don't saturate your clothing with perfumery. Josh Billings once shrewdly said, that "the best perfume he knew of for a man came from perfect cleanliness."
The English rule, which is generally adopted here, is, that the full dress suit should never be worn earlier than a six o'clock dinner. The French rule of wearing the dress suit on all ceremonious occasions, whenever they occur, is not accepted in America.
The dressing gown should never be worn at the table, nor anywhere outside of the dressing room, or sick room.
Finally, don't dress like a "dude," or a "swell," nor carry a little poodle dog (a man's glory is in his strength and manliness--not in aping silly girls), nor cock your hat on one side, nor tip it back on your head (let it sit straight and square), nor wear anything conspicuous or that will make you offensive to others.
THE EVENING DRESS FOR GENTLEMEN.
The full evening dress for gentlemen has long been the same, and varies little from year to year. It consists of a dress or "swallow-tail' coat, black trousers and vest, the lat ter cut low, and cravat and gloves, either white or some very light tint. The shirt front must always be white and immaculate. The shirt studsa nd sleeve buttons plain and simple. The hair should be neatly combed and trimmed--but not so short as to resemble a prize fighter, nor so long as to suggest the "wild, untamed savage," in a dime museum. The evening dress is worn at balls, alrge dinner-parties, and the opera. It is never worn at church, nor anywhere else on Sunday. In small towns, or where the full evening dress is considered an affectation, it should not be worn. "At Rome do as the Romans do." The regulation evening dress is the same throughout the world, but many gentlemen seem ignorant of the dictates of etiqutte in regard to wearing it. The French rule is, to wear it on all ceremonious occasions, but the uniform English and American custom forbids its use at a morning reception, or anywhere before six o'clock. Gentlemen should be careful not to array themselves in such a suit on improper occasions.
THE MORNING DRESS FOR GENTLEMEN.
The morning dress consists of a black frock cut-away coat, black vest, or white in summer, light colored trousers, and silk or Derby hat, and a black tie. A white tie should not be worn with a frock coat. A light coat with black trousers is never allowable, and a frock coat with black trousers in considered in bad taste. The morning and evening dress should be kept quite distinct from each other, and no attempt made to combine them The morning dress is worn at church, at morning receptions, social parties, kettledrums, garden parties, when making calls, and at places of amusement.
THE DRESS OF GENTLEMEN FOR WEDDINGS.
At morning weddings (that is all weddings before six P.M.) the gentlemen, including the bridegroom and "best man," wear the regular morning dress. The bridegroom and "best man" may wear gloves or not, but light colored gloves should be worn, if any, and also light tinted ties are then expected. If a formal reception is held in the evening, gentlemen may wear the full evening dress, and, of course, the evening dress may be worn at an evening wedding, that is, one after six P.M., but not at any wedding held before that hour.
GLOVES FOR GENTLEMEN.
Gentlemen wear gloves in the street, when riding or driving, at church and places of amusement, when making calls, at balls, receptions and evening parties. Gloves are never worn at dinner, and not usually in the country. Any shade may be worn at church or places of amusement, or when calling. Delicate tints are most appropriate for evening parties, and white gloves are worn at balls. Ungloved hands are preferable to worsted or cotton gloves, which are not allowable for gentlemen at any time.
Although it is not true that "dress makes the man," it is true that dress is an index of character, and as such by no means unimportant. Our first impression is produced on strangers by the clothes we wear, and, as first impressions are often lasting, it is best that they should be favorable. A shabbily dressed man feels awkward and ill at ease, and a shabbily dressed woman still more so. Nature provides a suitable costume for plants and all animals, excepting man, but the "lords of creation" must devise their own covering, and exercise their own taste in so doing. A due regard for etiquette would require every one to dress well and suitably for every occasion. To make the best appearance they can with the means at their command, is incumbent on both men and women. Women of tact know full well that even sensible men take pride in their wives' appearance. Careless and slovenly women lose thereby a measure of their influence, for men, as a rule, are not attracted by slatterns, and the most devoted wife can never be proud of a slovenly husband. It is probable that not only is dress an index of character, but it doubtless also influences the manner and disposition somewhat, so that mean and shabby clothing tends to give any one mean and shabby ways.
"Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy,
But not expressed in fancy--rich not gaudy;
For the apparel oft proclaims the man."
But while all this is true, it is also true that for weak minds an inordinate love of dress is a dangerous passion, and may easily become a curse. For the poor clerk's wife to try and rival, in richness of dress, the wealthy banker's, is so evidently foolish as to be apparent to all, and it is a great temptation to her husband to try and obtain in unlawful ways money with which to gratify her. such women should know that extravagant display is ill-bred and vulgar, as well as foolish. She who thoroughly understands her circumstances and adapts her dress tehreto, displays both good taste and good sense. When two young people are beginning life together on a small income, and they have their own way to make in the world, it should be the pride and delight of the young wife to see how little she can spend on dress, and yet appear fresh and attractive. The French women have always been credited with the most genius for dress, and they do have an eye for the harmony of colors and the fitness of things that puts the average English woman to the blush, but the American women are little, if any, their inferiors in these regards.
Many of our readers have, no doubt, noticed that the old worn "gown" is coming into vogue again. It is applied to hte outer garment usually worn by ladies, while the word "dress" is applied to the tout ensemble--the whole combination of the clothes.
A few hints and general directions about dress may be given, as follows:
Perfect neatness and cleanliness are of the first importance.
It is said that refinement of character is never associated with vulgarity of dress.
Study the society with which you expect to associate, and adapt your dress thereto.
The pronounced and showy colors formerly worn, are not now allowable.
Dress should be pleasant to look at, and should harmonize with the season of the year.
A lavish display of jewelry and ostentatious costumes are in bad taste.
Extremely low-necked dresses--so low as to cause remark--are vulgar.
A dress so perfectly in harmony with one's character and surroundings as to be unnoticed, is in the best of taste. She who thoroughly understands herself and her surroundings, and adapts her clothing thereto, always appears well dressed.
To "out-Herod Herod" in going to the extreme of fashion, is in bad taste; it is equally so to disregard the prevailing style altogether.
Tight lacing is going out of style at present, in all countries.
Perfumes should be used in moderation, if at all. None but the best should ever be used, as cheap perfumes are intolerable. As musk, patchouly and sandalwood make many sensitive persons ill, a due regard for the feelings of others would forbid their use.
A competent authority on dress says: "Thin ladies can wear delicate colors, while stout, florid persons, look better in black or dark gray. For old, as well as young, however, the question of color must be determined by complexion and figure. Rich colors harmonize with brunette complexions and dark hair; delicate colors, with persons of blonde hair and complexion."
The usual gown for ladies of wealth and position should be of dark silk. Jewelry, flowers in caps, or hair ornaments, and light silk gowns, are not suitable for morning wear. Diamonds should be reserved for evening.
We offer the following hints in regard to the different styles of dress suitable for various occasions:
THE EVENING DRESS FOR LADIES.
The evening dress for ladies is worn at all festivities, and should, from first to last, be expressive of luxury. At all brilliant evening assemblies, the dress may be as rich and elegant as one chooses to make it. Incongruities, however, should be avoided. Jewelry may be worn, and the full dress costume, but dresses very low in the neck are in bad taste. The full evening dress is worn at balls, large dinners, and parties. The gown should be in the prevailing fashion, but as that constantly varies, we cannot give more explicit directions.
BALL DRESS FOR LADIES.
For the ball room the full dress should be worn. Those who dance should not wear heavy silks, but their dresses should be light and airy. For young people, gowns of light gossamer fabrics--net, tulle or tarletan--are most appropriate, trimmed with ribbons or flowers. Flowers may be worn in the hair, and for young ladies the natural are more suitable than artifical ones. Chaperons and elderly ladies may wear teh dress suitable for a dinner, and it need not be cut low in the neck, unless they prefer it, and then a lace scarf or shawl may be thrown over the shoulders. Jewelry never looks as well if pieces of different sets are worn together--such as adiamond brooch with emerald ear-rings or a necklace of pearls--and, therefore, the ornaments should match in character. Steel says that diamonds "may tempt a man to steal a woman, but never to lover her," which may console those who do not own them. It is not in good taste for young ladies to decorate themselves with any excess of jewelry at any time.
DRESS FOR THE OPERA.
The opera admits of elegant dressing. The evening gown may be worn, with ornaments in the hair instead of a bonnet. The lighter colored gowns are more pleasing, and add to the appearance of the house. At matineés a bonnet is always worn, and it may be very elegant and dressy, when desired.
DRESS FOR THE THEATRE.
For the theatre any attempt at display is out of taste, and the dress should be plain. Either a hat or bonnet may be worn, but it is a pity the sensible habit of removing the hat could not be introduced, out of regard for those who sit in the rear. The promenade dress may be worn, with dark gloves to harmonize.
DRESS FOR LECTURES AND CONCERTS.
Lectures and concerts admit of somewhat more display that the theatre. A silk gown, with some lace and jewelry, may be worn. The kid gloves should be light colored or white.
DRESS FOR CHURCH.
The dress for church may be rich in texture, but it should be simple and free from display. A church is the one place on earth where all classes should meet on an equal footing, and to flaunt one's elegant jewelry or dresses in the eyes of poorer or less fortunate people, while ostensibly worshipping Him who was so poor He had not where to lay His head, si manifestly in bad taste. Many wealthy and well-bred people recognize the propriety of plain dressing for church, and wear simple and unostentatious clothes at the house of God. Very little jewerly should be worn.
THE ORDINARY EVENING DRESS.
The ordinary evening dress, when at home, should be becoming and tasteful. Any of the heavy woolen dress goods in winter, or lawns or grenadines for summer, are appropriate, and silks are always suitable. Some jewelry may be worn, but diamonds should be reserved for occasions of more display. Bright ribbons may be worn at the throat and in the hair. The same dress is suitable to wear when making an evening call.
DRESS FOR INFORMAL EVENING PARTIES.
The full dinner dress is rich and elgant. Silks, satins and velvets, trimmed with laces, are worn, and costly jewelry, but everything should harmonize. In the summer, light, rich goods may be worn. Young ladies wear lighter tints and materials than the elderly ladies. For dinner, all the light neutral tints are suitable, and dark blue, purple, black, dark green, brown and fawn color.
A hostess should never make an effort to outshine her guests, and her dress should therefore be subdued in tone. Plain jewelry is worn when the dinner is held in daylight, as diamonds are usually reserved for gaslight.
DRESS FOR RECEIVING CALLS.
Ladies who have special days for receptions, should wear quiet colors on those occasions, but the gown should be of silk, or other appropriate material. A little jewelry may be worn, but ostentation should be avoided. For New Year's, and other special occasions, the dress may be rich and elaborate, and full evening dress should be worn when the curtains are drawn and the gas lighted. A lady engaged in her household affairs, should receive casual callers in her morning dress, which should be plain and scrupulously neat, but they should never be kept waiting while a dress is changed. Receive them at once, or send word you are "engaged," or "not at home."
THE MORNING DRESS FOR HOME.
A lady's morning dress should be simple and suited to the time of day. It may be inexpensive, but it must be exquisitely neat; the ribbons fresh, and the cuffs, collars, or ruches, clean and spotless. In summer, light morning dresses, of some material that will wash, are suited to young ladies, whether married or not. Much jewelry, or any light laces, are decidedly out of place, and so is an old "company gown," furbished up for the occasion. A little richer style of dress is admissible when visiting at a friend's house.
For a late breakfast, and at a watering place, imitation lace is suitable, and a more luxurious style of dress.
VISITING COSTUMES.
The costumes worn for visiting, or for day receptions, are of richer material than walking suits. The taste of the wearer may be displayed in the bonnet, which may be either rich or simple, but should not be extravagantly fine. In summer all should be cool, bright, agreeable to the eye, and pleasant to wear; and in winter, a shawl, velvet jacket, or fur trimmed mantle, may accompany the carriage visiting dress.
MORNING DRESS FOR CALLING.
For morning calls, the most appropriate dress is of black or neutral tint, with a sparing use of colors. The walking dress may be worn, or the carriage dress, when accompanied by the carriage. Light colored gloves are invariably worn when paying calls, except by persons in deep mourning.
DRESSING FOR WALKING.
Walking suits may be simple, substantial and quiet in color, and they should not be worn so long as to sweep the sidewalk. In the country they should be strong and tasteful, but in the city more richness is admissible. Thick boots are now, fortunately, fashionable, so that a little mud is not a terror. Fine laces and elaborate gowns should never be worn on the street--they should be kept for balls and full dress occasions. Neither should a "dressy" hat be worn on the street, but the hat or bonnet should be plain, and should match the gown as nearly as possible. the waterproof cloaks, now so common, are much less troublesome than an umbrella.
DRESSING FOR DRIVING.
The dress for driving is very different from the walking dress. Light colored silks, long skirts, lace parasols and feathery hats, are suitable for a carriage ride through a park or the streets of a city, and rich furs may be worn in winter. In the country, or where the dust and mud would soil the clothes, a plain and simple dress should be worn. For the top of a coach, where it is now so popular and fashionable for ladies of certain "sets" to ride, a plain and serviceable suit is in every way preferable to the elaborate and showy dresses so often worn. The Princess of Wales lately showed her usual good taste by appearing on top of a coach in London in a suit of navy-blue flannel. Those young ladies who appear on the top of a coach in a costume fit only for a ball room, display ignorance of the fitness of things, and need not complain if they are subjected to ridicule, or made the butt of caricaturists. Both good sense and good taste would dictate and modest and serviceable costume for such a place.
DRESSING FOR RIDING.
For horseback riding, the dress should be made of broad-cloth or waterproof. The former is the most stylish, but the latter is better for servicel Lighter costumes may be worn in summer. To prevent the skirts from being blown by the wind, they should be weighted by having shot sewed in at the bottom of the left hand breadths. It is an excellent idea to wear the riding skirt over another of the usual length, so that in case of accident the riding skirt may be slipped off, and yet leave the rider properly dressed. The habit should fit perfectly and button nearly to the throat, and a linen collar, with a pretty neck-tie, is worn. tHe sleeves come to the wrist, with linen cuffs beneath them. Strong leather gloves, with gauntlets, are worn, and the whip is light and plain. The hat should be in the prevailing fashion, but no long veil should be worn to flaunt in the wind. Embroidery and laces should never be worn with a riding habit.
DRESSING FOR TRAVELING.
The traveling costume should be made for service and free from superfluous ornament, for nothing is so hard on ordinary clothing as traveling. A linen duster may be worn to protect the clothes in summer, and a waterproof in winter. Dark or neutral tints, that do not show the dust, should be worn, rather than any light colored fabrics. White is never worn to travel in. Ladies going a short distance in the cars for a brief visit, may wear any dress suitable for the occasion, and their fresh, airy costumes, are often objects of envy to excursionists in travel-stained and dusty raiment. the hat should be plainly trimmed and protected from the dust by a veil. THe experienced traveler looks out for comfort and provides a waterproof, and a shawl or wrap in cold weather. IT is better to have trunks large enough to hold all your things, with a hand valise to hold the few articles needed on teh journey, than to burden yourself or others with a lot of small packages.
DRESS FOR LADIES OF BUSINESS.
There are so many avenues now open in which ladies may earn a livelihood, that we have a large class of business women. Their dress should be made with special reference to comfort and a free use of their bodies. The colors should be plain, and while the dress may be valuable, it should not be heavily trimmed. Excessive display, or ornamentation, is out of place. While engaged in business, quiet colors should be worn, and display avoided, reserving the rich and elegant clothes for theri appropriate occasion. Little jewelry should be worn, and the hat should be tasty, but without many flowers or feathers.
DRESS FOR LAWN PARTIES, ETC.
The dress for lawn parties, bazaars, promenade concerts and flower shows, may be bright and gay, and even coquettish. Much taste and elegance may be displayed. A dressy bonnet or hat may be worn, and the whole costume made as effective as possible. Young ladies wear light and fine materials, which harmonize with their character, while elderly ladies wear silks, or other handsome material, richly trimmed with lace, and a lace scarf or shawl may also be worn.
DRESS FOR YACHTING.
Yachting suits should be warm and made of some durable material, such as serge or tweed, that will not be easily spoiled by a little salt water.
DRESS FOR PICNICS, EXCURSIONS, ETC.
For picnics, excursions, or the sea shore, the suits should be made of strong and useful material. something that will wash, or that will look well at the end of a hard days' jaunt, is more serviceable than any light and flimsy material that will easily tear or become soiled.
DRESS FOR CROQUET PARTIES, ETC.
The dress for croquet, archery and skating parties, may be brilliant in color and short enough to admit of freedom of movement. A stout boot may be worn, but it should fit neatly. For archery and croquet, soft and plaible gloves should be worn, and a hat that will shield the face from the rays of the sun. For skating, velvet and furs and warm clothing should be worn, and fur-trimmed gloves. The dress should indicate warmth and comfort. Tight shoes will give cold feet.
BATHING COSTUME.
For a bathing costume flannel is the best material. Various colors are worn, but blue and grey are the best, and the trimming may be bright worsted braid. An oil-silk cap may be worn to protect the hair from the salt water. It is hardly necessary for us to say that no modest, well-bred woman, will wear the close fitting and abbreviated costumes sometimes seen, alas! with too evident an intent to display one's charms. The legs and sleeves should be long, the neck high, and the costume loose and full.
THE WEDDING DRESS.
The wedding dress should always be white, whether of silk, satin or other material. The bridal veil seems to be a survival of an old Anglo-Saxon custom, of having four tall men hold a large, square cloth over the bride during the ceremony, to hide her blushes. The bridal veil has now become an essential feature of weddings, and must always be white and long. It may, or may not, cover the face. White satin slippers are worn, and white kid gloves, although the latter are sometimes omitted. The bridal wreath is often made of orange blossoms, which are considered the most appropriate for that purpose, and the other flowers carried by the bride should be white. As orange blossoms are often difficult to procure, other natural flowers frequently take their place. Myrtle leaves are very appropriate, adn are sometimes worn, as they are emblematic of marriage. The bridal robe is often adorned with garlands of artificial flowers, although, of course, natural flowers are preferable. Jewelry should not be worn, unless it be diamonds or pearls.
Widows, on remarrying, wear light netural tints, but never white, and they always omit the orange blossoms.
At strictly private weddings, when the bride starts at once on her wedding tour, she is married in her traveling suit. It is sometimes more heavily trimmed than an ordinary traveling suit, but to avoid attracting attention it is better to have it plain.
THE DRESS FOR BRIDESMAIDS.
The bridesmaids commonly dress in white, but more variety is allowed in their dress than in that of the bride. Veils may be worn, but they should always fall entirely down the back, and should never be as long as that of the bride. Usually all the bridesmaids dress alike. Sometimes, however, they wear gowns of the primary colors, one blue, one pink, one red, and one yellow; but white, of some material less expensive than the bride's costume, is most suitable. IT is not proper for a bridesmaid to wear a finer gown than the bride. The bouquets may be of colored flowers. Neither the bride nor the bridesmaids wear anything over their shoulders, except their dresses and veils.
DRESS SUITABLE FOR WEDDINGS.
The older guests at a wedding should wear rich and handsome gowns, but, of course, black or mourning costumes are not in harmony with such an occasion. The young ladies, other than the bridesmaids, should wear any dainty material, as light colored silks, or fine muslins. Children, when present, are dressed in muslin and lace, with bright ribbons, if girls, and the boys in some fancy costume.
DRESS SUITABLE FOR WEDDING RECEPTIONS.
If the wedding reception is held in the evening, the guests should wear full evening dresses. At the reception, as at the wedding, mourning costumes should never be worn by guests; the bride and bridesmaids may wear the wedding suits. If the reception is held in the morning, handsome promenade costumes may be worn, and white gloves.
MOURNING DRESSES.
For mourning dresses, and the priods of mourning, see the article on "Etiquette of Funerals and Mourning."
GLOVES FOR LADIES.
Ladies wear gloves when riding or driving, calling, shopping, at the theatre or opera, at church, at balls and receptions. Any tint may be worn when shopping, calling, or at church. Delicate shades should be worn at evening parties, and white gloves at balls. Gloves are not worn at dinner.
ETIQUETTE OF DRESS FOR GENTLEMEN.
The subject of dress is not considered so important by gentlemen as by ladies, and yet no real gentleman is indifferent to his dress and personal appearance. A few general hints in regard to their dress may be offered, as follows:
The true gentleman is scrupulously neat and clean. Collars and cuffs should be faultlessly white, and teh clothes well brushed.
H. H. (Helen Hunt) once said to a friend of the writer (who was then a little boy playing with her son): "There are three things a gentleman will always do--he will keep his boots nicely blacked, his teeth clean, and his finger nails clean."
Hair oils and pomades are not used now, as formerly. They are considered vulgar, and they certainly are not cleanly. No gentleman should use hair dye. It deceives no one, and it makes the features look coarse.
Clothes of some plain color are always in the best taste, and so are white collars and cuffs and shirt bosoms. The fancy striped and spotted shirts and collars are sometimes worn in summer, but they always look a little rowdyish.
Let bar-tenders, gamblers and sporting men, monopolize the extravagant displays of jewelry. As a rule, wear no jewelry that is not useful. Shirt studs, cuff buttons, a scarf pin, a watch chain, and one ring, are about all the jewelry allowed to gentlemen, and these should be plain, and not too showy.
Don't saturate your clothing with perfumery. Josh Billings once shrewdly said, that "the best perfume he knew of for a man came from perfect cleanliness."
The English rule, which is generally adopted here, is, that the full dress suit should never be worn earlier than a six o'clock dinner. The French rule of wearing the dress suit on all ceremonious occasions, whenever they occur, is not accepted in America.
The dressing gown should never be worn at the table, nor anywhere outside of the dressing room, or sick room.
Finally, don't dress like a "dude," or a "swell," nor carry a little poodle dog (a man's glory is in his strength and manliness--not in aping silly girls), nor cock your hat on one side, nor tip it back on your head (let it sit straight and square), nor wear anything conspicuous or that will make you offensive to others.
THE EVENING DRESS FOR GENTLEMEN.
The full evening dress for gentlemen has long been the same, and varies little from year to year. It consists of a dress or "swallow-tail' coat, black trousers and vest, the lat ter cut low, and cravat and gloves, either white or some very light tint. The shirt front must always be white and immaculate. The shirt studsa nd sleeve buttons plain and simple. The hair should be neatly combed and trimmed--but not so short as to resemble a prize fighter, nor so long as to suggest the "wild, untamed savage," in a dime museum. The evening dress is worn at balls, alrge dinner-parties, and the opera. It is never worn at church, nor anywhere else on Sunday. In small towns, or where the full evening dress is considered an affectation, it should not be worn. "At Rome do as the Romans do." The regulation evening dress is the same throughout the world, but many gentlemen seem ignorant of the dictates of etiqutte in regard to wearing it. The French rule is, to wear it on all ceremonious occasions, but the uniform English and American custom forbids its use at a morning reception, or anywhere before six o'clock. Gentlemen should be careful not to array themselves in such a suit on improper occasions.
THE MORNING DRESS FOR GENTLEMEN.
The morning dress consists of a black frock cut-away coat, black vest, or white in summer, light colored trousers, and silk or Derby hat, and a black tie. A white tie should not be worn with a frock coat. A light coat with black trousers is never allowable, and a frock coat with black trousers in considered in bad taste. The morning and evening dress should be kept quite distinct from each other, and no attempt made to combine them The morning dress is worn at church, at morning receptions, social parties, kettledrums, garden parties, when making calls, and at places of amusement.
THE DRESS OF GENTLEMEN FOR WEDDINGS.
At morning weddings (that is all weddings before six P.M.) the gentlemen, including the bridegroom and "best man," wear the regular morning dress. The bridegroom and "best man" may wear gloves or not, but light colored gloves should be worn, if any, and also light tinted ties are then expected. If a formal reception is held in the evening, gentlemen may wear the full evening dress, and, of course, the evening dress may be worn at an evening wedding, that is, one after six P.M., but not at any wedding held before that hour.
GLOVES FOR GENTLEMEN.
Gentlemen wear gloves in the street, when riding or driving, at church and places of amusement, when making calls, at balls, receptions and evening parties. Gloves are never worn at dinner, and not usually in the country. Any shade may be worn at church or places of amusement, or when calling. Delicate tints are most appropriate for evening parties, and white gloves are worn at balls. Ungloved hands are preferable to worsted or cotton gloves, which are not allowable for gentlemen at any time.
